Category Archives: food and cooking

Moussaka Traditions

In former times I used to make moussaka at least once a year for special occasions, like my late husband’s birthday. I hadn’t made it at all in the last ten years or so, until last week when I decided to bake up a double batch for an event. I buy a half a lamb every year from a local farmer, and usually have ground lamb in my freezer as a result. So I kept with my tradition and made the moussaka with lamb, though beef also works.

Does any of you my readers make this dish? My version is a small-print clipping from an unnamed magazine, glued into my oldest, messiest personal collection of recipes; tiny notes in the spattered margins tell of adjustments I have made based on other cooks’ ways. This time another unique result was the product of my efforts. Eggplants are not symmetrical and vary in size and weight; my packages of meat were whatever amount came from my particular lamb; I used a combination of whole milk and evaporated milk to make the custard sauce that goes on top; and I forgot to include the breadcrumbs. I ended up with one 9×12 pan and one 8×8 pan, and leftovers of the meat mixture and the sauce to pour over.

Going into the oven with custard sauce.

As is too often the case, I was in a hurry in the end to get the dish to the event, and forgot to take a picture when it came out of the oven. In looking through my files to see if I had by any chance had an old moussaka-from-the-oven pic, I found a whole series of shots of preparing it, ten years ago, also lacking the triumphant final pose. So here is an example from the internet, which looks like it has cheese on top instead of the custard, and the eggplants I used were larger, my slices wider — but it looks somewhat similar.

Moussaka picture from the internet

Maybe I will get in the habit of making this dish again, and refine my recipe so that I don’t end up with leftovers. If that happens, I’ll share it with you. In the meantime, I know you can find many moussaka recipes online to work with if you like? I am still wondering, Do you like?

The Julian Christmas cookies are my favorite.

Many of us have completed the Twelve Days of Christmas, but I haven’t finished telling about all my activities connected to the Nativity Feast. My fellow Orthodox Christians who are on the traditional Julian calendar have just begun to count the days, however, so if we keep them in mind it won’t seem strange to muse a while longer on Christmas cookies. Plus, they are only Christmas cookies because I bake them at Christmas; you could enjoy them at any season of the year.

These are my favorite because of their chewy texture, the flavors of citrus and almond, and because my friends and family who are gluten-intolerant can fully enjoy them.

Last year I made two batches of this invention, but I wasn’t completely settled on the amounts of a couple of the ingredients. This time I made only one batch (so far), but after my latest tweaks I’m confident that if you try them, you are likely to be happy with the result. There are no grain flours in the recipe, so they are gluten-free.

Dried (sweetened) mandarin oranges

MANDARIN ALMOND COOKIES

7 oz. almond paste, in pieces
4 oz. cold butter, salted or not
1/3 cup sugar
1/3 cup powdered sugar
scant 1/4 teaspoon salt

Combine the above ingredients in a food processor until evenly mixed. Add and process:

4 large egg whites, one at a time.

Remove from processor to a bowl and add:

2 3/4 cups finely ground almond flour
6 oz. package of dried mandarin oranges (found at Trader Joe’s), finely chopped

Put the dough in the refrigerator for an hour.

Put 1/2 cup granulated sugar in one bowl, and
1/2 cup powdered sugar in another bowl.

Drop heaping tablespoonsful of dough into the sugar; gently coat and shape into 1 1/2″ balls. Repeat in powdered sugar.

Set 1 inch apart on parchment-lined baking sheets. Bake until golden or golden brown, at 325 degrees, 22-25 minutes. Remove to racks to cool. Cookies will be crumbly until thoroughly cool. They keep well in the refrigerator or freezer.

The amount of sugar here is a reduction from my original experiment, and I might try cutting back a little more next time, hoping that the chewiness of the cookie won’t be affected too much. The recipe that inspired me was an Italian Orange Fig Cookie that my son had made in 2022. I tried that last year with disappointing results, and created this one instead because I had the mandarin oranges on hand. I hope Trader Joe’s continues to carry that item!

This cookie might be worth the trouble.

I did get around to baking cookies — after Christmas Day. With so many family members arriving and departing at different times, our schedule of activities was hard for me to keep up with, and cookies weren’t a high priority. I made only two kinds in the end, the ones for which I had made a point of buying ingredients. One of those was the one I gave to you last month from the New York Times cooking site: Ginger Cheesecake Cookies.

They were not difficult to make, but they were tedious. You freeze the cheesecake filling in little dollops and then wrap soft gingerbread dough around one at a time. That wasn’t hard to do at first, but I had to interrupt my work and put the dough in the fridge for a day, and when I took it out again it never would become pliable enough to manipulate easily.

Piping the dollops, from the video.

However, my dollops of cheesecake came out almost perfectly even with the amount of dough, and in spite of the sloppy way I did everything (for example, I used a spoon rather than a piping bag to form the cheesecake parts), the resulting cookies were big and beautiful — and dreamy-delicious. The balls flatten in the oven and you end up with a hidden layer of cheesecake inside a cookie that has an intoxicating flavor in itself, from fresh, dried and candied ginger going into the mix. The contrast with the creamy cheesecake layer is special; the family members who were still here to try the new cookie raved about them.

When I finally put the last pan in the oven, I thought, “I’ll never make these again!” But I have already changed my mind about that. The recipe is for 18 cookies, which seemed a ridiculously small number to me, so I doubled it. When I saw how huge the cookies came out, and had realized by then that the dough would best be used right away, I decided that a single batch is plenty to work with in one session.

From the NYT Cooking video.

If you are interested in this cookie, and you click on the link for the recipe, you might want to read the cooks’ comments; many of them suggested making this into a bar cookie, to make it faster. This recipe was one of the Cookie Week 2024 collection, so there is an accompanying video of the creator demonstrating everything. I hope some of you try the recipe in one way or another and let me know how it works for you: Ginger Cheesecake Cookies.

Apricot Coconut Macaroons

I’ve been sharing pictures and mentions of this cookie for several years now, and last year I promised to post the recipe after Christmas. I see that I failed in that. They are the cone-shaped cookies in the middle of the closer platter above. It’s nice to have a cookie that is fruity and flourless to complement the richer offerings in such abundance, so here is the recipe as I received it, with my notes added in italics:

APRICOT MACAROONS

From Master Chefs Cook Kosher by Judy Zeidler

1/2 cup tightly packed dried apricots, quartered (I use ¾ – 1 cup for more apricot flavor, and decrease coconut slightly; also, I always use Blenheim apricots for their rich flavor- GJ)
1/2 cup water

3/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar
4 egg whites (or 1/2 cup)
4 1/2 cups unsweetened coconut (see note)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line baking sheets with parchment paper.

Combine apricots, 1/2 cup water and 1 tablespoon of sugar in a saucepan over
medium heat. Poach until tender and only about 1 tablespoon of water
remains, about 10 minutes. Cool.

Transfer to a food processor and add remaining 3/4 cup sugar, egg whites and
1/2 cup coconut. Begin with pulsing, then process until apricots are pureed.
Transfer to a mixer fitted with the paddle or beaters and add remaining
coconut. On medium speed, beat until coconut is well blended. When ready,
mixture should hold together when pinched.

Divide dough into 24 equal portions. With moistened fingers, shape each
first into a round and then into a cone. Arrange on baking sheets, 1 inch
apart. Bake 15 to 20 minutes, or until tops are well browned. Cool on a rack
and store in an airtight container. Makes two dozen.

Note: Sweetened coconut may be substituted; reduce sugar by 1/4 cup. 

2017